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Sunday, April 16, 2023

Berry Good Eating

by Eric

Even before the spring melt was finished we could see the traditional green spikes of day lilies sticking up through the remains of the snow by our door. We don't try to garden here in the shade, rocks, and tree roots. We only observe. And maybe put names to the vegetation growing naturally in the backyard.

Finding out the name of a hitherto anonymous plant feels akin to putting a stick through the seed packet and placing it at the end of the row in the flower bed, but without the digging, fertilizing, watering, or sowing. For example, I finally identified the Mock (or Indian) Strawberries that will be decorating the grass soon and last right into the fall. At first I mistook the plants for wild strawberries. From a distance they look the same. Closer examination, though, revealed that while the leaves and vines are very similar, the red berries are bristly, seedier, and lacking in the familiar strawberry smell.

Although too dry and tasteless to appeal to humans, they're apparently tasty to animals. I've seen crows and woodchucks harvesting them. I watched a squirrel making a leisurely feast, repeatedly nosing around in the grass to find a berry, then sitting on its haunches to nibble at the treat held in its paws.

For my own part, I was disappointed they weren't wild strawberries. Coming upon anything uncultivated and edible outside is a bit of a thrill. Does it remind us of our foraging past?

When I was a kid I knew where to find the untended berry bushes in nearby fields and patches of woods. I preferred the small blackcaps and raspberries to the larger blackberries with the seeds that stuck between your teeth.

One year, when Mary and I lived in Rochester, the raspberries along the abandoned railroad tracks a couple blocks from our house went wild. We carried away several grocery bags full. We never again saw the berries in such profusion.

Years before that, in a corner of the tiny yard of a house I rented, a gnarled gooseberry bush clung to life. It looked like it had been there since colonial times, or longer, the gooseberry equivalent of the Glastonbury Thorn. Each year the sparsely leafed skeletal branches managed to bring forth a handful of round, translucent berries.

Even more exotic were the berries I discovered while accompanying my dad on trips to haul garbage to the local dump when I was a kid. Beyond the smoking landfill, just inside the woods, in the light shade of saplings and birch trees, wintergreen covered the ground, red berries bright against dark evergreen leaves. I was amazed. To me wintergreen meant chewing gum or Life Savers. It was strange to encounter it in a natural state. There's a berry I've never identified. I only remember seeing it in one place, in the straggling weeds near the edge of a scrubby patch of woods a few yards away

The mysterious berries were the size, shape, and texture of blackcaps but light orange in color and with a mild taste defined mostly by their unfamiliar, perfumy fragrance. I haven't turned up a photo or description on the Internet that quite matches my memory. Perhaps they were golden raspberries and I'm not recalling them exactly. It's been a long time since I've seen them.

The Burying Berry

by Mary

Word on the country street warns us not to eat, pick, or have anything to do with blackberries after Michaelmas, the feast day of St Michael (29th September, 10th October old style). Ignore this advice at your peril, lest misery, disaster, and an IRS audit follow. There are even those who go so far as to predict whoever disregards the warning will be dead by the end of the year, the risk also extending to members of their family.

I first heard we should not eat blackberries after Michaelmas when I lived in Oxfordshire in the long ago, but it was not until we began writing The Guardian Stones that the belief's dark presence showed up in our fiction. When talking about Isobel, who has gone missing from the village of Noddweir, local wise woman Martha Roper declares "She's been carried off by the devil because she ate blackberries last October. The devil, no doubt about it.." To her way of thinking, wilful Isobel did not listen to those who warned her of the danger and thus went over the fatal date, well into the dangerous period to be dining on the berries.

Recently it occurred to me to ponder why the blackberry came to be regarded in this way. A bit of poking about revealed it was considered to have been cursed by Lucifer because he landed on a blackberry bush after his fall from heaven following defeat by the Archangel Michael. The fallen angel vented his fury by lashing out with a fearful malediction that would cause terrible suffering to those who had post-Michaelmas truck with the fruit.

Depending on location, other traditions have it Lucifer was so enraged at the hitherto innocent blackberry he also burnt, trampled, spat, and/or relieved himself on the bush. Margaret Ann Courtney succinctly warned in Cornish Feasts and Folk-lore (1890) "This fruit, by old people, was said not to be good after Michaelmas, kept by them 10th October (old style); after that date they told you the devil spat on them, and birds fouled them."

Similarly, Charlotte Latham's Some West Sussex Superstitions Lingering in 1868 records the tale of a farmer's wife said to be living near Arundel. Finding herself without the necessary amount of berries needed to make a large batch of blackberry jam, she instructed her charwoman to send a couple of children to pick more for the purpose. The other woman pointed out it was 11th October, adding "I thought every one knew that the devil went round on the 10th October, and spat on all the blackberries, and that if any person were to eat on the 11th, he or some one belonging to him would either die or fall into great trouble before the year was out."

Had Isobel come to grief because she disregarded the awful warning? Well....